Refinance Break-Even Calculator

Find out how many months it takes for a mortgage refinance to pay back its closing costs, and whether a longer new term ends up costing you more overall.

Updated September 2026 2026 tax data Free, no sign-up, nothing sent to us

Your current loan

$
What you still owe
%
Example. Use your rate.
yrs

The refinance offer

%
From a real quote
$
The total on the lender's estimate
yrs
Optional. Shows your saving at that date.
Break-even point (counting interest)
-
Payment goes from $0 to $0 a month
Monthly payment saving
$0
Payback from lower payments alone
-
Cash needed at closing
$0
Saving if you keep it as planned
-
Saving over both full loans
$0
New loan amount
$0

Interest and closing costs paid, keep versus refinance

Side by side

Keep current loanRefinance

Results are estimates for planning and education only. They are not financial, tax or legal advice. See our methodology.

How to tell whether a refinance is worth it

A refinance replaces your current loan with a new one, usually at a lower rate. The catch is that the new loan comes with closing costs. The break-even point is how long it takes for what you save to pay back what you spent. This calculator finds that point, and it also shows something a simple "months to recover costs" figure hides: what happens if the new loan is longer than the time you have left on the old one.

The formulas, and what every variable means

payment = P × r ÷ (1 − (1 + r)−n)
simple break-even (months) = closing costs ÷ (old payment − new payment)
cost so far = interest paid to date (+ closing costs, for the refinance)

SymbolMeaningHow it is found
PThe amount borrowedYour balance today, plus the closing costs if you roll them into the new loan
rMonthly interest rateAnnual rate ÷ 12 ÷ 100 (6.25% becomes 0.005208)
nNumber of monthly paymentsYears × 12. Use the time you have left for the old loan.
Closing costsFees to arrange the new loanThe total on the lender's Loan Estimate
Cost so farWhat each choice has really cost you at a given monthInterest paid in all the months up to then, plus the closing costs for the refinance

The principal you repay is not counted as a cost, because it builds your equity whichever loan it goes to. That is why the calculator compares interest and closing costs, and why rolling the costs into the loan does not change the cost picture much: you pay interest on them, and the payment goes up a little.

Worked example 1, by hand: $280,000 at 7.25%

You owe $280,000 at 7.25% with 27 years left. A lender offers 6.25% over 25 years, slightly shorter than the time you have left, so you would not be stretching your debt. The closing costs are $5,600, paid in cash.

  1. Payment now: $280,000 at 7.25% over 324 months = $1,971.74.
  2. Payment after refinancing: $280,000 at 6.25% over 300 months = $1,847.07.
  3. Monthly saving: $1,971.74 − $1,847.07 = $124.67.
  4. Payback from the lower payments alone: $5,600 ÷ $124.67 ≈ 44.9 months.
  5. Counting the interest actually paid under each loan, the refinance has cost less than keeping the old loan from month 24 (2 years).

Why are the two answers so different? The lower rate cuts your interest by about $233 in the first month ($280,000 × 1.00% ÷ 12), which is more than the $125 payment saving. The difference is that the new loan is also a little shorter, so more of each payment goes to principal. That is not lost money. It lowers what you owe and builds equity, so the calculator counts it. The payment-only figure ignores it. The calculator's main answer, 24 months, is the point where the refinance has cost you less in interest and closing costs. It matters most if you might sell, because the equity comes back to you then. The payment-only figure, 45 months, is the cash-flow view: when your lower payments have refunded the closing costs out of your monthly budget. Both are shown in the results.

Over both full loans the refinance saves $79,123 after the $5,600 of costs, and if you keep the loan 7 years it saves $15,174.

Worked example 2: pay the costs in cash, or roll them into the loan

Costs paid in cashCosts rolled into the loan
New loan amount$280,000$285,600
Cash needed at closing$5,600$0
New monthly payment$1,847.07$1,884.02
Monthly saving$124.67$87.73
Break-even24 months27 months

Rolling the costs in means nothing to pay at the closing table, and the break-even is only slightly later. The trade is that you borrow more and keep paying interest on the costs for the life of the loan. If you have the cash and expect to keep the loan a long time, paying up front is usually the cheaper route.

Worked example 3: the trap of starting the clock again

You owe $200,000 at 6.5% with 20 years left. A lender offers 6% on a new 30-year loan with $4,000 of closing costs.

New 30-year loanNew 20-year loan
New monthly payment (now $1,491.15)$1,199.10$1,432.86
Monthly saving$292.05$58.28
Break-evenNever49 months
Saving over both full loans−$77,801$9,988

The 30-year loan looks attractive because the payment falls by $292 a month. The quick sum, $4,000 ÷ $292, says the costs come back in about 14 months. Yet it never pays back its closing costs and costs $77,801 more in the end, because you are borrowing for ten extra years. The loan at the same 20-year term saves less each month, but it does break even, after 49 months, and finishes ahead. A lower payment can be worth paying for if you need the breathing room, but it is a different decision from saving money, and this calculator shows you which one you are making.

Worked example 4: how big does the rate drop need to be?

The main example, with four different new rates:

New rateNew paymentBreak-evenSaving after 7 years
6.75%$1,934.5546 months$5,465
6.25%$1,847.0724 months$15,174
5.75%$1,761.5016 months$24,823
5.25%$1,677.8912 months$34,407

A bigger drop pays back faster and saves more. A small drop with the same closing costs can take so long to break even that it is only worth it if you are sure to stay. Get quotes from more than one lender, since the closing costs and the rate both change the answer, and enter each offer to compare them.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Comparing only the monthly payment. A lower payment on a longer loan can cost far more overall.
  • Forgetting how long you will stay. If you move before the break-even point, the refinance loses money.
  • Leaving out closing costs. Use the total on the lender's written Loan Estimate.
  • Using the original term. Enter the years you have left on the current loan, not the original length.
  • Refinancing over and over. Every refinance restarts the costs and can restart the clock.

Once you have a real quote, see what the new payment would include with the mortgage calculator, and compare shorter and longer terms with the 15 vs 30 year mortgage calculator.

Sources and review

The payment formula is the standard fixed-rate amortization formula. The break-even month is checked against an independent closed-form calculation in our test suite. The idea of dividing refinancing costs by the monthly saving to find the break-even period, the two kinds of "no-cost" refinancing (a higher rate, or costs rolled into the loan), and the warning that refinancing late in a loan restarts the amortization, are all explained in the Federal Reserve Board, A Consumer's Guide to Mortgage Refinancings. It is an older guide, so its fee names predate the current Loan Estimate, but the arithmetic is unchanged. On weighing points against how long you will keep the loan, see the CFPB on lender credits and points. Last reviewed September 2026. Comparing quotes from several lenders? Use the loan offer comparison calculator. Read about our methodology.

Frequently asked questions

What is the break-even point on a refinance?

It is the number of months until the money you save on the new loan has paid back what the refinance cost you. Before that point you are behind. After it you are ahead, as long as you still have the loan. If you sell or refinance again before the break-even point, the refinance loses money.

How do I calculate the break-even point?

The quick way is to divide your closing costs by your monthly payment saving. In the example on this page, $5,600 ÷ $124.67 is about 44.9 months. That is when the lower payments alone have paid back the costs. The calculator's main answer is the cost break-even, which counts the interest you actually pay under each loan, month by month. For the same example it is 24 months, sooner, because the new loan also repays principal faster. The calculator shows both.

Should I roll the closing costs into the new loan?

It saves cash at closing, but you then borrow and pay interest on the costs. In the example on this page, rolling in the $5,600 lowers the monthly saving from $124.67 to $87.73 and moves the break-even from 24 to 27 months. Use the checkbox to try it with your own numbers.

What is a "no-closing-cost" refinance?

The lender pays or credits the closing costs, usually in exchange for a higher interest rate on the new loan. To test one, enter 0 as the closing cost and use the higher rate you were quoted. Compare the result with a quote that has a lower rate and real costs.

Does refinancing to a longer term cost more?

Very often, yes, even when the rate is lower. In the term-reset example on this page, refinancing a loan with 20 years left into a new 30-year loan at a lower rate cuts the payment by $292 a month but costs $77,801 more over the life of the loans. You are simply paying for longer. Sometimes a lower payment is worth that, but you should choose it knowingly.

How much lower does the rate need to be?

There is no single number, because it depends on your balance, your closing costs and how long you will keep the loan. In the rate example on this page, a new rate of 6.75% breaks even in 46 months while 5.25% breaks even in 12 months. Enter your own quote to see yours.

What if I might move in a few years?

Then the break-even point matters more than the lifetime figure. Enter how long you expect to keep the loan and the calculator shows your net saving at that date. In the main example, keeping the loan for 7 years saves $15,174 after costs. If you left before month 24, you would be behind.

What are typical closing costs?

They vary by lender, state and loan size, and are often a few percent of the loan amount. The 2% used as the example here is only an illustration. Ask each lender for a written Loan Estimate, which lists the real costs, and enter the total. Costs that are really prepaid items, such as some tax and insurance deposits, are not the same as fees, so ask the lender to separate them.

What does this calculator leave out?

It does not handle cash-out refinances, changes to your escrow, mortgage insurance, the tax treatment of points or interest, or a prepayment penalty on your current loan. It also assumes fixed rates on both loans. Treat the result as a planning estimate and check the details on your lender's Loan Estimate.

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